The importance of fashion in postwar ruin

While this first photo might evoke shock or rage in the hearts of an anti-capitalist, when you take a closer look you discover something even a Marxist might appreciate...

Yes, Sierra Leonean fashion designer Adama Kai is a woman after my own heart. I have had some difficulty locating an online presence for her, but found this fantastic interview at Ladybrille. Here is a taste:

LADYBRILLE.com: You have been quoted saying that what "you are doing is enriching Sierra Leone." and you say that it's like opening a "hospital or a school." Arguably schools and hospitals are critical to improving the overall health and economic state of Sierra Leone. High fashion/couture is not. Could you elaborate on what you mean when you say it enriches Sierra Leone?
Adama: What I know is that you can follow the history and development of the world culture and its people through cloth. The topic of dress is [that] of self-image, self-esteem and self-confidence. With the recent past history like ours [Sierra Leone], one can only imagine what it has done to our self-image. Some say fashion and style is superficial but I believe it has a way of boosting ones self esteem and I see self-confidence as critical for social development. Aschobi is changing the image of Sierra Leone, from Blood Diamonds to Couture. Through fashion, I am employing tailors, through the tailors’ talents, I am showcasing African style. I am enriching their lives an dshowing them a new way of looking at life.


I would rather you read her own words than my own spiel related to them. It really is worth a click over...

(Images by Katrina Manson as attributed in the Corriere della Sera report by Maurizio Caprara.)

Do you really have a choice?

This old Wendy's ad struck so true to me, for as I was twirling the beginnings of Wrinkle in 2003, writing up an angsty storm about fashion and societal structure, a big part of it was about choice.

Choice as we know it is related more having options in front of us, determined by someone else, than creative or truly independent choices based on an infinite number of possibilities. I am sure it would be harder to govern a population that was accustomed to using its full potential in that way.

This old Wendy's ad plays on what would be an American point of view of freedom, and its antithesis, this gray Roussky picture of Communism. There is truth in it, and comedy too, but what gets me is how it is used to play into our minds, particularly susceptible to the image of freedom as having "choice". And not only choice, but this ad makes a stab at fashion, one of THE absolute purveyors of the image of happiness and well-being.

Have you ever noticed how many designer interviews begin with the story of, "I started making clothes because I couldn't find anything I liked out there?" I think this absolutely must be true for a lot of designers, and remains true for a lot of super small fashion creators too, even if we are just doing DIY refashioning. And Threadbanger has had terrific success, because the DIY culture touches every element of our lives. And we ALL wear clothes.

It pleases me so much to see the breadth of people who would rather explore through making and remaking, than play into the old game. And those who are involved directly too, by widening the scope of choice into something full of unbridled imagination through supporting small indie designers. I don't believe we can or should make everything we need, but neither should everything we need be furnished by so few, such controlled sources. And some great things have been invented by non-experts!

I'd love to know:
In what ways does fashion contribute to your happiness?
Are there any important questions you ask yourself before making a fashion choice?